Amritsar, India

Amritsar, near the India-Pakistan border, is the spiritual and cultural center of the Sikh religion. Inside the walls of the chaotic old city is the Harimandir Sahib, better known as the Golden Temple, the most sacred site in Sikhism.

Inside the walls of the temple complex, pilgrims pray and bathe in the holy waters that surround the temple. There is also a free kitchen and dorms and all people, regardless of sex or faith are welcome.

A Sikh pilgrim, enjoying some shade inside the temple complex at midday.

Another reason to visit Aurangabad is to see the flag lowering ceremony at the India-Pakistan Wagah Border crossing. It is a spectacle that I think is an absolute must-see and thousands of people, on both sides of the border, show up every evening to watch the pomp of it all.

The audience first gets involved by running to and from the gate with flags from their country, followed by a bit of dancing. Then, the guards steal the show by marching at each other, while showing as much contempt for the other side as possible with their bodies instead of their guns, by stomping their feet, gesturing with thumbs, and getting in each others’ faces, and it is all completely choreographed! The crowds’ excitement surges as they finally lower the flags, at the exact same pace, of course, so one country doesn’t look better than the other, and with a brief handshake the gates are slammed shut one last time. It’s pure, brilliant male machismo at its’ finest.

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Amritsar, India